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condition: fair
make / manufacturer: Porsche
model name / number: 911 Targa
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More pictures at
https://porsche911targa0.wordpress.com/2024/06/27/1971-porsche-911-targa-wide-body-project-for-sale/
78,0000 miles on the odometer but I do not know if that is accurate.
This Porsche is a running and driving project. It has a clean title and is licensed as a collector vehicle. It had been abandoned behind a car repair shop when the previous owner disappeared. I completed the lien process with the DMV and have a clear title. The targa top had been broken so rain leaked inside and rusted the floorboard. I have replaced the back half of the floorboard and welded patches on the front half floorboard. The windshield frame had light rust and was cleaned and sealed with rust converter. The rest of the vehicle has no rust.
The previous owner had the later 1974+ front section welded on to update the look. That was done very well and the body lines are good fit. The fender flares are steel. There is damage to the inside rear engine compartment core support and the rear bumper body mounts are tweaked up. I think it had a low speed impact in the rear. It very slight and doesn’t affect the appearance.
I painted the car this year and botched the prepping. The paint shows sanding marks through the base coat. It has some solvent pop on top of the rear fenders. I wet sanded to try to correct and it has not come out. The paint looks good and will make a good driver condition car. But it’s not going to win any car shows.
The car needs an after paint gasket set. Just about every weather seal is rotting or missing. I installed a new rear windshield gasket. The targa top is the folding type and has a broken hinge.
The interior needs replacement. The carpet is rough with rotted piping. The kkckboards left and right are missing as they were wooden and rotted. The seats are Volkswagen spares that I had. They have been temporarily installed and will not work as they are too tall and the rail structure is too different. The interior door handles have been converted to a pull cable instead of pushrod and I can't get them to reliably work. I replaced the door cards and relocated the electric window switched to the center console. The gauges all work except the tachometer does not work. The radio is aftermarket and missing the faceplate.
The brakes have been gone through with a new master cylinder and fresh rebuilt brake calipers all around. The tie rod ends have split boots and need replacing. The front shocks are tired and need rebuilding. The anti sway bar in the back is missing a link. The fresh air and hot air hoses need replacement.
The engine is a 1976 2.7L. It came to me with broken timing chain guides. I replaced the guides and it runs well. It has the Italian made Weber IDTP carbs. It leaks a bit of oil out the valve covers. I haven’t tuned it properly as I haven’t driven it much. The wiring harness in the engine compartment should likely be replaced. It’s pretty rough with a solder blob where previous owner patched a wire. The alternator is not charging. I am unsure if the external voltage regulator is the cause or the alternator itself.
The transmission is a 5 speed and shifts well. The clutch has not been replaced by me and likely needs replacement but it works well.
I have a standard steel engine lid and the fiberglass ducktail. The ducktail is a cheaper production and doesn’t fit quite right. It rubs on the side of engine opening. There are extra bumpers and valance panels that come with. There are two basket of parts that come with it. The leftover paint I used comes with it. A single stage guards red that was used in the door sills, frunk and engine bay. A two stage guards red was used for the exterior. The clear coat has been all used up.
post id: 7761005304
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